If you could distill Vegas down to its very essence, you’d end up with the foul brew sloshing around the drunk tank at the Clark County Jail — and, one sweltering August night, I was part of it myself.
Nabbed for DUI, I was unceremoniously dumped into the jail’s holding tank to stew in my regret while sobering up. Never having been arrested before, I was unsure what to expect — my only concept of jail was from TV, so I expected to be beaten up and raped by a gang of burly lesbians in short order.
But, gee, either our miscreants are friendlier than those in other cities, or TV lied. I found myself in the company of a ragtag band of mostly agreeable, down-on-their-luck chippies — strippers picked up for drug possession, prostitutes hauled in for solicitation, fellow barefooted boozers busted for DUI or vagrancy. Aside from a sunburned homeless woman who sat in the corner, muttering curses and picking at her blackened toenails, my fellow inmates were a surprisingly genial bunch. We felt a bizarre camaraderie — it was like summer camp for the damned.
There was the voluptuous Panamanian stripper who’d gotten drunk to ease the pain of spending her son’s ninth birthday a thousand miles away from him; the unfortunate young hooker who’d been hired by a couple with no hotel room, and had been going at it in the backseat of their car in an Albertson’s parking lot until getting busted for public nudity; and the friendly, middle-aged Asian stripper who took a personal interest in me as I sat weeping like a bitch in the corner.
“You dancer, honey?”
“No,” I sniffed.
“Why you no dancer?! You so pretty!”
“I know, I know, it’s really good money … but I’m the world’s worst dancer. I could never do it!”
“No, honey; it easy! I show you!”
And so it was that I was the bemused recipient of a lap dance from a middle-aged Vietnamese stripper in the holding tank of the Clark County Jail. Halfway through her demo, I noticed that she was missing several fingers on each hand.
“Where did you say you danced?” I asked, sure I wasn’t remembering correctly. I thought she had said one of the top clubs in town, a club known for featuring the best-looking women in Vegas.
But she confirmed it, adding that they only let her dance until 9 p.m., allowing her to return at 3 a.m. During this window she would sometimes leave to go dance at less discerning establishments. Like the one at the Clark County Jail.
Curious, I asked the woman on my lap what she was in jail for. “Domestic violence,” she answered — she had beaten up her husband for some unnamed infraction, and he’d called the cops.
By then, I had stopped crying; despite my wretched state of filth and fatigue, I was actually smiling. I had steeped myself in the very essence of Vegas — and it wasn’t that bad, after all.


